Should motorists change their vehicle's oil every 3,000 miles? This question has different answers, depending upon a number of different conclusions. The video shows why our views of the "3 month 3,000 mile" traditional oil change intervals need to be adjusted. You will have to sort out the information to determine what is best for you and your car. We objectively outline the 4 different perspectives:
1. What auto manufactures say in their owner's manual.
2. What your specific driving habits are.
3. The ecology and environment.
4. Your car repair and service economy.
Here is our explanation: 1. What auto manufactures say in their owner's manual.
A recent survey by CalRecycle indicates almost 15 million Californians change their motor oil every 3,000 miles or less. However, many cars can go farther. For example, Toyota recommends an oil change every 5,000 miles for a 2005 Tacoma pickup, while General Motors recommends 7,500 miles for its 2007 Chevrolet Malibu.
If you wish to follow the owners' manual (like you do for your oven, lawnmower, television and coffee maker), you need to read the suggested oil change intervals in the owners manual that apply to "severe driving conditions". What does this mean? 2. What your specific driving habits are.
Pay attention to the video portion from 1:20 to 2:35. Matt Snider explains for those GM cars equipped with instrument panel displays of oil life consumption, how these different driving conditions affect oil life.
Just as an athlete's metabolism differs from that of a pre-school student and a senior citizen, your car's engine (and thus, the engine oil that lubricates it) is affected by the driving conditions to which you submit your car. Severe driving conditions include:
Extreme weather temperatures. "Severe" driving includes extreme hot (Las Vegas, Phoenix, Palm Springs, Salt Lake City, New York City, Dallas, Miami, gates of Hell-you get the idea) and extreme cold (Lake Tahoe, Salt Lake City, Boise, Montana, Chicago, New York City, Minnesota, Michigan, Wisconsin, Canada, North Pole, Antartica, Superman's hideaway-you get the picture). Ambient temperatures-cold and hot-break down engine oil at a faster rate than moderate temperatures. So, unless you drive in Ecuador ( 65 degrees 12 months a year), chances are you drive in temperatures that fit severe driving.
Stop and go city driving. Yes, your average, every day, "go-to-the-mall/go-to-the-store/go-on-a-date/take-the-kids-to-their-games" kind of driving is considered "severe". Why? Because, you stop and go! Accelerating, braking, speeding up, slowing down-all of that produces undue strain on your engine (and engine oil), than cruising along at 65 MPH (or 85 MPH with your radar detectors) along the smooth open freeways and highways (LA and Orange County California freeways excepted) of America.
High RPM driving. Notice we (and Matt in the video) did not say MPH (miles per hour), but rather RPM (engine Revolutions Per Minute). Young people in their Camaros, adults in their Porsches and Lamborghinis, and wannabe NASCAR. Indy Car, and "Gone In 60 Seconds" drivers who rev their engines down city streets are considered severe driving conditions (but you already knew that!).
3. The ecology and environment. Reduced motor oil consumption reduces the risk of environmental damage. Changing your motor oil less frequently preserves natural resources. So, if you are focused more on "green, eco-friendly" than on car maintenance, extending the time between oil changes makes sense for you. 4. Your car repair and service economy. How long will you keep the car? Are you buying or leasing? Only have money for gas (2 gallons is a "fill-up" in your world)? Long term maintenance costs are reduced with regular oil changes-a little oil change bill several times a year prevents major engine repair bills down the road. So, if you want to keep your car for awhile, and not make new car or lease payments forever (Detroit would be happy if you did, though), then take care of your car's engine, and change the oil every 3,000-5,000 miles.
But, hey, if you are leasing your car, will give it back to the dealer in 3 years, get another "new" one to lease, do you really care what the engine will be like for the next poor sap who happens to buy it at an auction or used car lot? Probably doesn't tweak you at all. Then, drive it into the ground! Forget the oil, anti-freeze, even windshield washer fluid (well, maybe not the washer fluid-that is only $1.99 a gallon)-you can save your money for more important needs (like the RedBox video rentals).
Don't want to look in your glove compartment for your owner's manual information? Wonder where the glove compartment is in your car? Then log on to http://www.CheckYourNumber.org to find recommended oil change intervals for popular vehicle models.
Watch this safe winter driving video, and follow these 34 tips on driving in winter conditions-snowy, icy road conditions, as digested from our personal experiences driving in Utah, the National Safety Council, New York State Department of Motor Vehicles, Washington State Government Information & Services, Edmunds and various Auto clubs across the country:
5 Tips Before You Take On the Public Snowy Roads: 1. Put snow tires on your vehicle, and get a good grip of the roads. To have adequate snow traction, a tire requires at least 6/32-inch deep tread. High-performance "summer" tires have little or no grip in snow. Even "all-season" tires don't necessarily have great snow traction: Some do, some don't. Our advice for Utah drivers is to use snow tires. They have a "snowflake on the mountain" symbol on the sidewall, meaning they meet a tire-industry standard for snow traction.
Yeah we know, you think that it is just another service expense-two sets of tires, two sets of change outs every year. And, you are right. But, would you rather be “wrong” on the road? What will that “cost” you?? 2. Practice in a snow covered lot. It's helpful to practice winter driving techniques in a snowy, open parking lot, so you're familiar with how your car handles. 3. Before you go, listen to the radio for announcements about accidents, road closings, and road advisories. Call your local highway patrol if this information is not available on the radio. 4.Plan your route ahead of time to avoid any roads that become dangerous during bad weather. If a road is closed or blocked, do not attempt to continue on this route. 5.Let someone know your route so if you do become stranded, your family can let authorities know where to start looking. 15 Tips For Driving safely on icy roads
Safe driving distance from other vehicles. Decrease your speed and leave yourself plenty of room to stop. You should allow at least three times more space than usual between you and the car in front of you.
Brake gently to avoid skidding. If your wheels start to lock up, ease off the brake.
Turn on your lights to increase your visibility to other motorists.
Windshield wipers and lights should operate safely and properly..
Run the air-conditioner. In order to remove condensation and frost from the interior of windows, engage your air-conditioner and select the fresh air option: It's fine to set the temperature on "hot." Many cars automatically do this when you choose the defrost setting.
Use low gears to keep traction, especially on hills.
Don't use cruise control or overdrive on icy roads.
Use gentle impulses while driving: accelerate gently, turn slowly, and brake carefully and early. Avoid unexpected quick movements that could put you in a spin by leaving ample room between you and the next car. Anticipate turns, stops, and lane changes well before they occur.
Conversely, don't go too slow. The car will need some momentum to be able to push through heavier snow without getting stuck.
Steer clear of trucks. They are heavier than cars and need considerably longer stopping distances. Their tires also tend to spray snow and rain into parallel lanes, further hindering your visibility.
Don't pass snow plows and sanding trucks. The drivers have limited visibility, and you're likely to find the road in front of them worse than the road behind.
Don't assume your vehicle can handle all conditions. Even four-wheel and front-wheel drive vehicles can encounter trouble on winter roads.
Remember the tough spots. Be especially careful on bridges, overpasses and infrequently traveled roads, which will freeze first. Even at temperatures above freezing, if the conditions are wet, you might encounter ice in shady areas or on exposed roadways like bridges.
Watch carefully for "black ice." If the road looks slick, it probably is. This is especially true with one of winter's worst hazards: "black ice." Also called "glare ice," this is nearly transparent ice that often looks like a harmless puddle or is overlooked entirely. Test the traction with a smooth brake application or slight turn of the wheel.
Do not “over steer”. A slick section in a turn causes your front tires to lose grip, the common — but incorrect — reaction is to continue turning the steering wheel. If your steering wheel does not turn the car, rotate the wheel back the opposite direction, and allow for correction when the tires pass through the icy patch
5 Tips: If your rear wheels skid...
Take your foot off the accelerator.
Steer in the direction you want the front wheels to go. If your rear wheels are sliding left, steer left. If they're sliding right, steer right.
If your rear wheels start sliding the other way as you recover, ease the steering wheel toward that side. You might have to steer left and right a few times to get your vehicle completely under control.
If you have standard brakes, pump them gently.
If you have anti-lock brakes (ABS), do not pump the brakes. Apply steady pressure to the brakes. You will feel the brakes pulse — this is normal.
2 Tips: If your front wheels skid...
Take your foot off the gas and shift to neutral, but don't try to steer immediately.
As the wheels skid sideways, they will slow the vehicle and traction will return. As it does, steer in the direction you want to go. Then put the transmission in "drive" or release the clutch, and accelerate gently.
6 Tips: If you get stuck...
Do not spin your wheels. This will only dig you in deeper.
Turn your wheels from side to side a few times to push snow out of the way.
Use a light touch on the gas, to ease your car out.
Use a shovel to clear snow away from the wheels and the underside of the car.
Pour sand, kitty litter, gravel or salt in the path of the wheels, to help get traction.
Try rocking the vehicle. (Check your owner's manual first — it can damage the transmission on some vehicles.) Shift from forward to reverse, and back again. Each time you're in gear, give a light touch on the gas until the vehicle gets going.
#34: The best tip for winter driving: Sometimes it's best to stay home, or at least remain where you are until snow plows have done their work. If you crash on a snowy or icy road, you'll certainly be late — or worse. But since you can't always call in to work claiming a "snow day," it's better to learn how to correctly deal with driving in the snow.
Regardless of your driving skill or vehicle preparation, there are some winter conditions that can't be conquered. But these tips may help prevent snowy and icy roads from ruining your day.
Changing your vehicle's oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your auto repair technician later on.
Oil is a magical substance. Oil is used in everything from plastics to fertilizers to fuel and, of course, lubrication. When it comes to your engine, oil is the key to making it last. Without lubrication, the metal parts would just grind together and seize up in a matter of minutes.
So, what is it that engine oil specifically does for your car?
1. Keeps the engine cooler. It does this as a matter of design. The design of the engine and the layout of the oil system allows it to actually cool and draw heat from the engine. It does this because the oil collects in the oil pan. The oil pan is located at the bottom of the engine. As the car is moving, air rushes by the oil pan. The cooled oil then circulates up through the engine and siphons off some of the heat being produced. A car still needs a coolant system, but oil definitely plays a part in the process.
2. Oil in your engine cuts down on friction. Oil is a lubricant. You only need to rub it between your fingers to know this. (Try rubbing your palms together as fast as you can for one minute-how does it feel? Now, put hand lotion between those palms, and try it again-notice the difference? Your car’s metal parts react the same way).
The engine is essentially a mechanism of controlled explosions. The energy produced in the explosion propels metal parts. Oil sits between those parts and cuts down on the wear and tear caused by the back and forth movement. It is this lubrication that keeps the engine parts from heating up and melting into one block of metal goop.
Why do I have to change my engine oil?
Oil is amazing, but even oil will begin to break down after a while. Modern car engine oil is particularly helpful to cars because it contains detergent. What does detergent do? It breaks down the gunk found in an engine. This means that you can effectively take an old car and "revitalize" the internal engine parts by using modern oil. The oil will effectively clean up the gunk within the engine and help the engine run cooler. A cooler running engine is an engine that lasts longer. That means fewer repairs and less money spent.
Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant, parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.
Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.
Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can't absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.
The clearances between metal engine parts can be as little is .0010". The oil keeps the metal parts from touching. But even with oil between the metal parts, the spinning creates heat. In addition to lubricating the parts, the oil also carries the heat away.
Does it really matter when I get my oil changed? There is much discussion about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work — how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving — it's an inexact science. Owner's manual recommendations for oil and filter changes vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles, while most manuals say 7,500 miles.
We recommend that you change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles. That may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last a long, long time-several hundred thousand miles. You may want to consider changing your oil more frequently (3,000-4,000 miles) if:
You drive like you are in NASCAR: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving;
You live in Utah, where the climate gets extremely hot and cold;
You often drive on dirt roads;
Your engine is old and burns oil;
You frequently carry, pull or haul heavy loads (from your children’s soccer team to your prized horses, boat or camper trailer).
But the really important benefit to changing your oil every 3,000-4,000 miles is to have drivers routinely visiting a mechanic every 3,000 miles or three months to do a check up on their cars.
Most drivers don't even open the hood anymore-or check around their car or truck for obvious repair signs-a tire that is showing steel, a water hose swollen and about to bust, a leaking radiator, expired state inspection stickers, etc., etc., etc. In the old, old days, gas stations had attendants to check these every gas tank fill up (and they would pump your gas, wash your windows (see the movie “Back To The Future”-the first episode). With today’s “gas and goodie” stores, nobody checks those things-not even you!
Since the average American driver drives 12,000 miles a year, that is 3 or 4 oil changes a year. At $35 an oil change, that's about $100 a year to have your cars looked over and make sure things are okay. Now, compare that to a tow bill...the alternate price you'd pay if that radiator hose bursts on you in the summer, or tire blows on an icy road in the winter, leaving you on the side of the road with a car load of kids, groceries, missed appointments, and headache medicine.
What happens if I don’t change my oil? Your engine won't last as long as it could-plain and simple. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil.
The benefits of oil changes are not so great as the drawbacks of not getting your oil changed, which are catastrophic. While you do increase the life of your engine and keep your horsepower maximized by getting your oil changed regularly, these are not as significant as the problems that can arise if you do not change your oil when it is recommended to do so. First, not changing your oil often enough can cause significant damage to your engine, as the oil is necessary to keep all of the moving parts lubricated. By not having enough oil or by using oil that has outlived its usefulness (is filled with dirt or has low viscosity), you run the risk of allowing parts to not work as efficiently as they possibly could.
Squeeze too many miles out of your oil and you will find black gooey sludge at the bottom of your engine. Since the anti-friction additives will be gone, you'll see burned oil on all the engine parts (just like burned butter in a frying pan).
In the long run, such parts grinding together without lubrication in such a stressful environment as an internal combustion engine could eventually lead to such parts fusing together, jamming up or altogether failing. This is catastrophic to your engine, as the engine could simply stop working or actually explode if enough parts refuse to work.
If you break down the engine of a car that has not had its oil changed regularly, you will see what essentially looks like a scorched earth surface. Everything will be black, and there'll be balls of burnt oil everywhere. It's generally known as gunk. Gunk kills cars. It makes it difficult for parts to work efficiently, but it also acts as an insulator that causes the engine to heat up-and heat kills engines.
Can I change my own engine oil?
Sure, there is no law against it. That is, until you try and bury your old oil in your backyard. Oil disposal has become a hot issue in the last decade or so. Remember, it is illegal to dispose of used motor oil improperly. The EPA now levies a huge fine ( yes, HUGE-as much as six figures) for improper or illegal oil disposal. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone.
Are you ready to properly dispose of your used engine oil? Smith’s, Harmon’s, Target and convenient stores sell motor oil-but they do not accept your used oil back. You will have to find auto parts stores (Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O’Reilly, Wal-Mart) who will accept old oil from do-it-yourselfers. (And, make sure it is in a container that will not spill inside your vehicle-that would blow all of your well intended DIY savings!)
Answering Yes to the questions below means changing your engine oil will not become an all day marathon project:
Do you enjoy tinkering around the garage?
Do you own your own hand tools?
Are you okay with getting a little grease under your fingernails?
I've fixed things on my car that involve removing more than 5 bolts.
I've built a time machine out of wood.
Why do I have to check my oil level between oil changes?
Yes, you need to check the oil levelevery few hundred miles. With your car parked on a level surface, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it off on one of the fast food napkins you have stuffed in the glove compartment, and then reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the oil level.
Ideally, it should be right at the full mark. If it's at or below the add mark, that means you're a quart low and should add a quart of oil to the crankcase. If it's in between the two marks, you can add part of a quart to bring it up to the full mark (the distance between add and full represents a quart, so use that to estimate how much of a quart you need).
At some point, every engine starts to burn oil. Get in the habit of checking the oil from time to time, and you just might avoid having your engine melt down one day.
If you regularly run low on oil, be sure to report it to your mechanic. You may have a leak or may be burning oil — signs that you might be gearing up for a major boat payment to your mechanic.
Be careful not to overfill your car's crankcase with oil. If you put in too much oil, the engine's crankshaft can actually come in contact with the oil. And because the crankshaft is turning at several thousand revolutions per minute, it can quickly whip your oil into a froth — like the steamed milk that sits on the top of your Starbucks cappuccino. Why is that bad? Well, the oil pump can't pump froth very well, and as a result, it can't get oil to the parts of the engine that need lubrication. The result? An unplanned and expensive visit to your auto mechanic.
In conclusion, the combined effect of leaving dirty oil around a car’s engine can significantly decrease the life of vehicles while also making the vehicles less safe to drive. Basically, regular oil changes as part of routine car maintenance plays an important part in accident prevention.
