Should motorists change their vehicle's oil every 3,000 miles? This question has different answers, depending upon a number of different conclusions. The video shows why our views of the "3 month 3,000 mile" traditional oil change intervals need to be adjusted. You will have to sort out the information to determine what is best for you and your car. We objectively outline the 4 different perspectives:
1. What auto manufactures say in their owner's manual.
2. What your specific driving habits are.
3. The ecology and environment.
4. Your car repair and service economy.
Here is our explanation: 1. What auto manufactures say in their owner's manual.
A recent survey by CalRecycle indicates almost 15 million Californians change their motor oil every 3,000 miles or less. However, many cars can go farther. For example, Toyota recommends an oil change every 5,000 miles for a 2005 Tacoma pickup, while General Motors recommends 7,500 miles for its 2007 Chevrolet Malibu.
If you wish to follow the owners' manual (like you do for your oven, lawnmower, television and coffee maker), you need to read the suggested oil change intervals in the owners manual that apply to "severe driving conditions". What does this mean? 2. What your specific driving habits are.
Pay attention to the video portion from 1:20 to 2:35. Matt Snider explains for those GM cars equipped with instrument panel displays of oil life consumption, how these different driving conditions affect oil life.
Just as an athlete's metabolism differs from that of a pre-school student and a senior citizen, your car's engine (and thus, the engine oil that lubricates it) is affected by the driving conditions to which you submit your car. Severe driving conditions include:
Extreme weather temperatures. "Severe" driving includes extreme hot (Las Vegas, Phoenix, Palm Springs, Salt Lake City, New York City, Dallas, Miami, gates of Hell-you get the idea) and extreme cold (Lake Tahoe, Salt Lake City, Boise, Montana, Chicago, New York City, Minnesota, Michigan, Wisconsin, Canada, North Pole, Antartica, Superman's hideaway-you get the picture). Ambient temperatures-cold and hot-break down engine oil at a faster rate than moderate temperatures. So, unless you drive in Ecuador ( 65 degrees 12 months a year), chances are you drive in temperatures that fit severe driving.
Stop and go city driving. Yes, your average, every day, "go-to-the-mall/go-to-the-store/go-on-a-date/take-the-kids-to-their-games" kind of driving is considered "severe". Why? Because, you stop and go! Accelerating, braking, speeding up, slowing down-all of that produces undue strain on your engine (and engine oil), than cruising along at 65 MPH (or 85 MPH with your radar detectors) along the smooth open freeways and highways (LA and Orange County California freeways excepted) of America.
High RPM driving. Notice we (and Matt in the video) did not say MPH (miles per hour), but rather RPM (engine Revolutions Per Minute). Young people in their Camaros, adults in their Porsches and Lamborghinis, and wannabe NASCAR. Indy Car, and "Gone In 60 Seconds" drivers who rev their engines down city streets are considered severe driving conditions (but you already knew that!).
3. The ecology and environment. Reduced motor oil consumption reduces the risk of environmental damage. Changing your motor oil less frequently preserves natural resources. So, if you are focused more on "green, eco-friendly" than on car maintenance, extending the time between oil changes makes sense for you. 4. Your car repair and service economy. How long will you keep the car? Are you buying or leasing? Only have money for gas (2 gallons is a "fill-up" in your world)? Long term maintenance costs are reduced with regular oil changes-a little oil change bill several times a year prevents major engine repair bills down the road. So, if you want to keep your car for awhile, and not make new car or lease payments forever (Detroit would be happy if you did, though), then take care of your car's engine, and change the oil every 3,000-5,000 miles.
But, hey, if you are leasing your car, will give it back to the dealer in 3 years, get another "new" one to lease, do you really care what the engine will be like for the next poor sap who happens to buy it at an auction or used car lot? Probably doesn't tweak you at all. Then, drive it into the ground! Forget the oil, anti-freeze, even windshield washer fluid (well, maybe not the washer fluid-that is only $1.99 a gallon)-you can save your money for more important needs (like the RedBox video rentals).
Don't want to look in your glove compartment for your owner's manual information? Wonder where the glove compartment is in your car? Then log on to http://www.CheckYourNumber.org to find recommended oil change intervals for popular vehicle models.
Changing your vehicle's oil is one of the most important things you can do to avoid bringing large bags of money to your auto repair technician later on.
Oil is a magical substance. Oil is used in everything from plastics to fertilizers to fuel and, of course, lubrication. When it comes to your engine, oil is the key to making it last. Without lubrication, the metal parts would just grind together and seize up in a matter of minutes.
So, what is it that engine oil specifically does for your car?
1. Keeps the engine cooler. It does this as a matter of design. The design of the engine and the layout of the oil system allows it to actually cool and draw heat from the engine. It does this because the oil collects in the oil pan. The oil pan is located at the bottom of the engine. As the car is moving, air rushes by the oil pan. The cooled oil then circulates up through the engine and siphons off some of the heat being produced. A car still needs a coolant system, but oil definitely plays a part in the process.
2. Oil in your engine cuts down on friction. Oil is a lubricant. You only need to rub it between your fingers to know this. (Try rubbing your palms together as fast as you can for one minute-how does it feel? Now, put hand lotion between those palms, and try it again-notice the difference? Your car’s metal parts react the same way).
The engine is essentially a mechanism of controlled explosions. The energy produced in the explosion propels metal parts. Oil sits between those parts and cuts down on the wear and tear caused by the back and forth movement. It is this lubrication that keeps the engine parts from heating up and melting into one block of metal goop.
Why do I have to change my engine oil?
Oil is amazing, but even oil will begin to break down after a while. Modern car engine oil is particularly helpful to cars because it contains detergent. What does detergent do? It breaks down the gunk found in an engine. This means that you can effectively take an old car and "revitalize" the internal engine parts by using modern oil. The oil will effectively clean up the gunk within the engine and help the engine run cooler. A cooler running engine is an engine that lasts longer. That means fewer repairs and less money spent.
Oil undergoes thermal breakdown due to high operating temperature. When this occurs, the oil becomes less effective as a lubricant. And without a good lubricant, parts of the engine rub together and wear each other out.
Oil also contains additives that have the ability to neutralize acids. Over time, these additives get used up and stop being effective.
Finally, oil can absorb water, dust and combustion byproducts and also hold them in suspension. Eventually, the oil gets saturated with this stuff and can't absorb any more. Then that stuff remains in the engine and can cause corrosion.
The clearances between metal engine parts can be as little is .0010". The oil keeps the metal parts from touching. But even with oil between the metal parts, the spinning creates heat. In addition to lubricating the parts, the oil also carries the heat away.
Does it really matter when I get my oil changed? There is much discussion about exactly when engine oil gets old and how often it should be replaced with new oil. Because there are many factors at work — how you drive, the condition and age of the engine, the external environment you drive in, and stop-and-go versus highway driving — it's an inexact science. Owner's manual recommendations for oil and filter changes vary from 3,000 to 10,000 miles, while most manuals say 7,500 miles.
We recommend that you change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles. That may be too soon for many people and too late for a few, but for the vast majority, 5,000-mile oil changes will help your engine last a long, long time-several hundred thousand miles. You may want to consider changing your oil more frequently (3,000-4,000 miles) if:
You drive like you are in NASCAR: jackrabbit starts, heavy acceleration or high-speed driving;
You live in Utah, where the climate gets extremely hot and cold;
You often drive on dirt roads;
Your engine is old and burns oil;
You frequently carry, pull or haul heavy loads (from your children’s soccer team to your prized horses, boat or camper trailer).
But the really important benefit to changing your oil every 3,000-4,000 miles is to have drivers routinely visiting a mechanic every 3,000 miles or three months to do a check up on their cars.
Most drivers don't even open the hood anymore-or check around their car or truck for obvious repair signs-a tire that is showing steel, a water hose swollen and about to bust, a leaking radiator, expired state inspection stickers, etc., etc., etc. In the old, old days, gas stations had attendants to check these every gas tank fill up (and they would pump your gas, wash your windows (see the movie “Back To The Future”-the first episode). With today’s “gas and goodie” stores, nobody checks those things-not even you!
Since the average American driver drives 12,000 miles a year, that is 3 or 4 oil changes a year. At $35 an oil change, that's about $100 a year to have your cars looked over and make sure things are okay. Now, compare that to a tow bill...the alternate price you'd pay if that radiator hose bursts on you in the summer, or tire blows on an icy road in the winter, leaving you on the side of the road with a car load of kids, groceries, missed appointments, and headache medicine.
What happens if I don’t change my oil? Your engine won't last as long as it could-plain and simple. Oil serves many crucial functions, and clean oil performs those functions better than dirty oil.
The benefits of oil changes are not so great as the drawbacks of not getting your oil changed, which are catastrophic. While you do increase the life of your engine and keep your horsepower maximized by getting your oil changed regularly, these are not as significant as the problems that can arise if you do not change your oil when it is recommended to do so. First, not changing your oil often enough can cause significant damage to your engine, as the oil is necessary to keep all of the moving parts lubricated. By not having enough oil or by using oil that has outlived its usefulness (is filled with dirt or has low viscosity), you run the risk of allowing parts to not work as efficiently as they possibly could.
Squeeze too many miles out of your oil and you will find black gooey sludge at the bottom of your engine. Since the anti-friction additives will be gone, you'll see burned oil on all the engine parts (just like burned butter in a frying pan).
In the long run, such parts grinding together without lubrication in such a stressful environment as an internal combustion engine could eventually lead to such parts fusing together, jamming up or altogether failing. This is catastrophic to your engine, as the engine could simply stop working or actually explode if enough parts refuse to work.
If you break down the engine of a car that has not had its oil changed regularly, you will see what essentially looks like a scorched earth surface. Everything will be black, and there'll be balls of burnt oil everywhere. It's generally known as gunk. Gunk kills cars. It makes it difficult for parts to work efficiently, but it also acts as an insulator that causes the engine to heat up-and heat kills engines.
Can I change my own engine oil?
Sure, there is no law against it. That is, until you try and bury your old oil in your backyard. Oil disposal has become a hot issue in the last decade or so. Remember, it is illegal to dispose of used motor oil improperly. The EPA now levies a huge fine ( yes, HUGE-as much as six figures) for improper or illegal oil disposal. The days of digging a hole in the back yard and pouring dirty oil into it are long gone.
Are you ready to properly dispose of your used engine oil? Smith’s, Harmon’s, Target and convenient stores sell motor oil-but they do not accept your used oil back. You will have to find auto parts stores (Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O’Reilly, Wal-Mart) who will accept old oil from do-it-yourselfers. (And, make sure it is in a container that will not spill inside your vehicle-that would blow all of your well intended DIY savings!)
Answering Yes to the questions below means changing your engine oil will not become an all day marathon project:
Do you enjoy tinkering around the garage?
Do you own your own hand tools?
Are you okay with getting a little grease under your fingernails?
I've fixed things on my car that involve removing more than 5 bolts.
I've built a time machine out of wood.
Why do I have to check my oil level between oil changes?
Yes, you need to check the oil levelevery few hundred miles. With your car parked on a level surface, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it off on one of the fast food napkins you have stuffed in the glove compartment, and then reinsert it. Remove it again, and check the oil level.
Ideally, it should be right at the full mark. If it's at or below the add mark, that means you're a quart low and should add a quart of oil to the crankcase. If it's in between the two marks, you can add part of a quart to bring it up to the full mark (the distance between add and full represents a quart, so use that to estimate how much of a quart you need).
At some point, every engine starts to burn oil. Get in the habit of checking the oil from time to time, and you just might avoid having your engine melt down one day.
If you regularly run low on oil, be sure to report it to your mechanic. You may have a leak or may be burning oil — signs that you might be gearing up for a major boat payment to your mechanic.
Be careful not to overfill your car's crankcase with oil. If you put in too much oil, the engine's crankshaft can actually come in contact with the oil. And because the crankshaft is turning at several thousand revolutions per minute, it can quickly whip your oil into a froth — like the steamed milk that sits on the top of your Starbucks cappuccino. Why is that bad? Well, the oil pump can't pump froth very well, and as a result, it can't get oil to the parts of the engine that need lubrication. The result? An unplanned and expensive visit to your auto mechanic.
In conclusion, the combined effect of leaving dirty oil around a car’s engine can significantly decrease the life of vehicles while also making the vehicles less safe to drive. Basically, regular oil changes as part of routine car maintenance plays an important part in accident prevention.
Nitrogen inflated tires use this dry, inert gas to inflate airplane tires, off-road truck tires, military vehicle tires, and race car tires for improved performance, more tire mileage and better fuel economy. More and more cars, light trucks, SUVs, Mini-vans and Crossover vehicles are using nitrogen inflated tires. Jay Leno explains in this video the nitrogen inflated tires.
Construction industry, mining industry, commercial trucking, NASCAR, the military, and Air Force One all have nitrogen inflated tires in their vehicles. The 7 Advantages of Nitrogen Inflated Tires
Less inflation pressure loss
Reduced wheel corrosion
Prevents inner-liner rubber deterioration by oxidation
Tires run cooler
Increases tread life
Increases fuel mileage
Helps prevent uneven wear
The biggest advantage out of these 7 for you is - improved tire life.
Experts in the tire industry indicate that oxidative aging is one of the primary causes of decreased tire life. Oxidative aging is caused by the diffusion of oxygen from the pressurized air cavity of the tire to the outside atmosphere. Tests have shown that if tires are inflated with nitrogen, there is a significant reduction in tire failure. Why did race cars, military and off-road vehicles switch to Nitrogen?
Air is about 1/5 Oxygen, and oxygen, especially at high pressures and temperatures, is a very reactive element.
When oxygen reacts with things, the process is called oxidation. When oxidation is extremely rapid, it's called "burning.
That's one reason nitrogen is used in off-highway and aircraft tires. These tires run so hot they can actually catch on fire. Nitrogen doesn't support combustion, so nitrogen-filled tires don't add fuel to the flames. And nitrogen helps prevent slower forms of oxidation also.
Nitrogen prevents other types of corrosion as well.
Oxygen and moisture corrodes aluminum and steel wheels. Oxygen also reacts with rubber, another type of "corrosion". When this corrosion starts, the small particles break off and form rust and dust, which can clog vavle cores, causing them to leak. The rough surfaces created from the corrosive action on the wheels leads to tire beads that don't seal properly, causing additional leaks .
Oxygen also ages the inner liner, the thin layer of rubber inside the tire whose function is to keep air away from the carcass. As the inner liner ages, more and more air molecules can pass through it, causing more pressure losses. These pressure losses in a truck tire can average 2 psi a month as a result of the air passing through the sidewalls. As it passes through the rubber, the oxygen can also corrode the steel cords, causing them to rust too.
How does Nitrogen help?
While both nitrogen and oxygen can permeate rubber, nitrogen does it much more slowly. It might take 6 months to lose 2 psi with nitrogen, compared to just a month with air. And nitrogen is far less reactive. It doesn't cause rust or corrosion on steel or aluminum, and it doesn't degrade rubber. Wheel surfaces stay smooth and clean, rubber remains supple and resilient.
Nitrogen also will not degrade the rubber seal in the valve core which extends valve core life and helps prevents core leaks.
Nitrogen reduces the water vapor in the compressed air of your tires. The air around us is full of water vapor. Compressing air concentrates the water in it. When you compress air, it takes up much less volume, but the percentage of water by volume is greatly increased.
Water vapor in compressed air acts as a catalyst, accelerating rust and corrosion. Water vapor also absorbs and holds heat. And when it changes from liquid to vapor, water expands tremendously in volume.
As a result, tires inflated with wet air tend to run hotter and fluctuate in pressure more. That's one of the reasons why racing tires, where fractions of a psi can radically change the handling characteristics, are inflated with dry nitrogen.
Will my tires have 100% Nitrogen after they are filled?
In reality, no. The Ingersoll-Rand Nitrogen Generator puts out 98% pure Nitrogen. On an uninflated tire, there is still some air present, so after you refill with nitrogen, you'll end up with about 95% nitrogen, which is enough to do the job. That can be increased slightly by filling up the tire with nitrogen without a valve core in the valve stem, and then letting the tire delate. Then install the valve core and refill to normal pressure with the nitrogen. (purging)
Tires are one of the primary costs of operating a fleet of vehicles. Tire costs include procurement, maintenance and the cost of blowouts.
A typical truck tire with two retreads costs $480.00 and lasts approximately 270,000 miles.
Inflating tires with nitrogen will help to prevent premature casing failure and allow tires to be retread multiple times, with confidence and reliability.
Inflating tires with nitrogen to eliminate oxidation related aging can extend tire life by up to 25%.
Increasing tire life to 337,500 miles would save $120 per tire.
A fleet with 50 trucks and 900 wheel positions would save over $100,000 in tire costs by inflating with nitrogen.
The primary cost of maintaining tires is the cost of labor to check tire pressures and top off tires with compressed air on a periodic basis.
Tires filled with nitrogen will not experience this diffusion and resulting loss of pressure.
Tires filled with nitrogen maintain pressure for a much longer periodof time than tires filled with air.
If a truck fleet conducts preventative maintenance on 5 trucks per day and presently spends 30 minutes per truck topping off tires, they could realize savings of $31,250 per year based on a labor rate of $50 per hour and 250 work days per year, by inflating tires with nitrogen.
Goodyear sent a set of the new Goodyear MT/R's with Kevlar to the Jeep Driving School in Sedona, to try on and test drive on every imaginable surface type. The Northern Arizona terrain offers almost every condition possible- from hot sand to icy rocks, and greasy mud to brownie batter mud. Their bottom line synopsis after a month driving on those tires? "The Goodyear MT tires with Kevlar shed mud, sand, and snow like a prom dress; they love wet rocks, and they ride like butter on the highway, too--this tire will be hard to beat! "
Car emergency safety kits-everyone should have one stowed in their vehicle. Since you don't know when a vehicle emergency is going to happen, being prepared ahead of time is the only protection you can take. You've got to be prepared for everything. So there are some things every car should have, basic standard things, and sometimes not so standard, but reasonable items to make an emergency roadside breakdown less stressful.
5 Emergency Kit Essentials, 10 Things, 20 Things-you may have already read about some lists. Here are our 25 Essential Emergency Roadside Kit items:
1. Medication - if you have medication that you must take daily put at least 3 days worth in your car. This is especially true for people with asthma, diabetes, severe allergies and any other conditions that can be potentially life threatening. Check the dates on the medication often and don’t let them expire.
2. Water - always keep a few bottles of water with you so if you are stuck somewhere for an extended time you have something to drink. If you live where it gets down to freezing, only fill the bottles 3/4 of the way to allow room for the ice to expand.
3. First Aid Kit - you need to have the basics like latex gloves, bandaids, tape, small scissors, disposable face mask, gauze and a ace bandage.
4. Fire Extinguisher - get one designed specifically for automobiles. They need to be checked every year to make sure they are still effective.
5. Gloves - have wool gloves, a pair of work gloves and a few pairs of disposable rubber gloves in case you have to get out and put snow chains on, change a flat tire or assist someone who is injured.
6. Non-perishable Food - granola, protein bars, peanuts, jerky or other foods that won’t go bad.
7. Trash Bags - these are versatile in that you can use them to store wet items, put a dirty tire in, put over your clothes to protect you from the weather, cover an injured person on the road or use on the ground to stay clean while repairing your car.
8. Fix-A-Flat can - Flat tires are a common roadside emergency-this is a short term fix, until you get to an auto repair or tire store. Please inform the tire or auto repair dealer when you have used this fix-a-flat can for your tire.
9. Flashlight - get one that you wind up so you won’t need batteries.
10. Waterproof matches or a lighter plus an empty can to melt snow if you need water.
11. Jacket and a hat.
12. Blanket or space blanket.
13. Umbrella - this is useful in the rain and in the heat to keep the sun off you.
14. Jumper Cables - or a contained unit that you can use to jump start your car yourself.
15. Small Tool Kit - you can pick this up at most big box stores or make your own. Get one with both types of screwdrivers, a wrench, pliers, knife and wire cutters. It also doesn’t hurt to have some wire ties just in case a hose comes off and you need a temporary repair.
16. Walking shoes and socks - especially important for the ladies who may be wearing heels. If you travel during the winter it is a good idea to keep snow boots in the car.
17. Mini Fan - if you travel in an area where it is very hot you will need a personal fan to keep you cool. They make ones with an attached water bottle so you can spritz yourself or your kids while you are cooling down.
18. Cash - make sure you have small denominations of cash in case you have to purchase anything like gas or food or pay to have snow chains installed. If you are in an area experiencing power outages your Debit, Credit or ATM card will do you no good. Keep extra change around if you are in an area where you may have to pay tolls.
19. If you have room your should carry a new, empty one gallon gas can just in case you run out of gas. Don’t carry full gas cans in your trunk, as they are very flammable.
20. A resealable container of kitty litter or sand. This is useful for soaking up oil spills and for putting on the snow or ice for added traction.
21. Duct tape - this stuff is amazing and you should always have at least a partial roll with you. You can use it to temporarily repair a broken radiator hose or hold a car part on if you are in an accident but your car is still drivable.
22. Road flares - you can get the traditional type or the newer ones that have LEDs in them and are reusable like a flashlight. These are important in case you break down in a dark area or on a curve in the road.
23. Towels, rags or paper towels - you need something you can wipe your hands on after changing a flat or working on the engine.
24. Collapsible Shovel - Traveling in the Utah winter or on mountain roads, you want to be able to dig your tires out if you are stuck.
25. Toilet paper - you never know when you have to go and it comes in handy at service stations that don’t have any in the restrooms.
While most mishaps can be handled with little trouble (AAA says that 3 out of 5 assistance calls it receives are fixed on location without the need for a tow), others are a little trickier because aid isn't nearby or is "closed for the evening." Waiting time for a helping hand to arrive in these situations varies greatly depending on where you are, as well as on road and weather conditions.
So, it's important to follow the Boy Scouts' motto while on the road: Be prepared! That means putting together an emergency road kit and carrying it around with you.
Tires, Tire Specials, Tire Discounts-what do they mean? Are all tires "the same"? Tom at Hillside Tire takes the mystery (and the stress) out of "Good, Better, Best" in Tire prices, by explaining what the different features and benefits of each tire grade mean for you. Yes, not all tires are "the same". A good rule of thumb has always been "you get what you pay for". Simply put, in buying tires, prices are based upon 3 main factors:
There are so many belts in a car engine, it is hard to keep up with them all. One of the most important belts in the engine is the timing belt. This news video on timing belts from 2006 shows how critical replacing a timing belt is to your car's engine operation. Without this belt operating properly, it can throw off the entire operation of the engine. The timing belt's purpose is to turn the camshafts exactly half as fast as the crankshaft.
Earlier cars and trucks had chains instead of a belt. The chain is preferred by many owners because it seldom needs to be replaced. The only problem with the chain is the noise it creates. For this reason, many manufacturers design the belt, and ask you to replace it periodically.
Since your timing belt is hidden within the engine, the labor costs just to “check” it are unreasonable. That is why it is just better to change them regularly, before they break. How often timing belts need to be replaced will depend on the type of engine. Some belts will only turn one camshaft, while others may turn as many as four. The more camshafts the belt has to move, the quicker it will wear out. The standard school of thought is: for vehicles before 1998, replace your timing belts around 90,000 miles (45 seconds into the video, the engine has 93,000 miles, and look at the timing belt damage). For vehicles after 1998, replace the belt is recommended around 105,000 miles.
Many people like to put this off beyond this time period because of the expense involved. This is a mistake, because not replacing the timing belt can lead to several other mechanical nightmares, which will cost far more to repair. Broken timing belts, because they operate the camshaft, can create further damage to engine valves.
Signs of a bad timing belt include a change in the engine's performance. This includes such things as stalls, backfires or running roughly with a lot of vibration. Squealing noises and smoke are two other obvious signs you may be having a problemwith a timing belt in your engine. Let us inspect your car to determine the causes.
Some enginetiming belts operate the water pump as well. Our offer to replace your water pump does not mean we are trying to take you for a lot of money. It is generally a precautionary measure. With the belt off, replacing the pump is very simple, there are no added labor costs. You actually save on the labor, since the water pump has to be removed anyway.. Just ask us what the history is on the water pump in your model car. If the water pump generally does not fail, it is a procedure you can do without.
Replacing the timing belt is one of those precautionary measures to take. Pay a little now, to save a lot later. We will gladly inform you of the specific timing belt replacement for your vehicle.
Your brakes are more than just brake pads-they are your safety system when you drive. Just like making sure you are strapped in on a roller coaster ride, you want to make sure your brakes are functioning properly. The following is a guide to symptoms and possible causes of common brake problems, all of which can be repaired and fixed, to keep you driving safely on the road:
Hard Pedal Requires extreme pressure to make brake function. Can indicate power brake trouble, restricted hydraulic lines, frozen calipers or wheel cylinders, or damaged brake linings. Low Pedal Pedal nearly touches floorboard before brakes function. May activate your brake warning light. Problems may require a simple adjustment, possible air in the brake fluid lines (requiring flush procedure) or leaks in the brake hydraulic system. Needs to be checked. Pull Car pulls to one side when brakes are applied. May be an under inflated tire, misadjusted brakes or brakes are in need of repair. Grabs "Touchy" brakes that grab with the least pressure. May indicate a problem as simple as grease or oil contaminated lining - or a loose or broken component in the system Squeal Brakes should operate with a minimal amount of noise. Some noise is normal but excessive squeal, screech, grinding, groaning, chatter, clatter or bang means your brakes need attention. Vibration Brake pedal, steering wheel or entire vehicle shakes, vibrates or pulsates when brake is applied. May indicate need to resurface disc brake rotors - or signal a loose component in the steering or , suspension system, or a tire related issue. This needs to be checked. Drag Sticking brakes, hot wheels or engine that seems to have lost power. Brakes may be failing to release; the condition can reverse itself, leaving you with no brakes at all. Brake Light Is On Emergency brake is on, low brake fluid, a serious drop in hydraulic pressure, or one of the brake sensors is malfunctioning. Your brakes may be need to be checked.
With the dog days of Utah summer upon us, high temperatures can take their toll on people, animals and even cars to overheating. Extreme heat can push a vehicle past its limits, and once again this year some drivers will find themselves stranded at the roadside because of it. Follow these "Engine Overheating Prevention" tips from AAA Motor club, and highlighted in this video from an ABC television station news piece last year, and help prevent surprise engine overheating:
1. Regularly Check Coolant Level (with engine cooled down). This is your first line of defense, and first symptom of potential cooling system failures. Always check engine anti-freeze levels when your engine has cooled down, to avoid hot anti-freeze blowing out of the radiator cap, and possible scalding. (See step 3).
2. Have a Professional Pressure Test Your Radiator and Cooling System. If you notice anti-freeze coolant levels are low, have a professional pressure test and leak test your coolant system. There may be cracks or holes in the radiator, radiator hoses, water pump, or other components (radiator cap, thermostat, coolant sensors, etc.) may be malfunctioning, or not working at all.
3. Never Remove Radiator Cap When Engine Is Hot.
4. Check All Fluid Levels (Yes, battery fluid, engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid). Engine fluids are essential to keeping a vehicle running smoothly. Most fluids not only lubricate, they also serve as coolants by helping carry heat away from critical components. When fluid levels are low, this cooling effect is reduced, and the possibility of overheating increases. Drivers should check all vehicle fluids including motor oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid to ensure they are filled to the appropriate levels. If any fluids need to be topped off, be sure to use the type of fluid specified in the owner’s manual.
5. Be Prepared for Summer BreakdownsWith Car Emergency Kits
Even with proper preventive maintenance, summer breakdowns can still occur, so AAA recommends every driver have a well-stocked emergency kit in their vehicle. The kit should include:
Water.
Non-perishable food items.
Jumper cables.
Flashlight with extra batteries.
Road flares or an emergency beacon.
Basic hand tools.
First aid kit.
We can perform a complete Air Conditioning and Coolant System Check up and tune up for your car or truck. We can service and keep your car air conditioning working properly, with a service and performance check ($29.95 special this month), of your auto air conditioning system.
The differential allows the drive wheels in your 2 Wheel Drive (2WD) or 4 Wheel Drive (4WD) car, truck or SUV to turn at different speeds. Proper lubrication of these differential gears is imperative for the safe and optimum performance of your vehicle. Checking the rear differential fluid every 15,000 miles for a "gummy" consistency will prevent costly repairs and can even extend the life of your drive-wheel tires.
Differential and Transfer Case services are recommended every 15,000 miles. Fluid breaks down, and gets contaminated with dirt that can damage bearings and gears in your front and rear axles, affecting driving and performance in your car or truck. Dan explains the importance of regular differential and transfer case services in this video.
